Bushido Savage Wave starter set, Part 8

The first step today was to finish off Zuba’s beard and hair. This was a very organic process, there was alot of back and forth between hilighting and washing to get the tonal range I wanted. And alot of blowing models. I would have had to upload about 30 photos if I tried to document the whole thing, so I just have a shot of the end result. The colours I used are RMS Snow Shadow, RMS Ghost White, RMS Pure White and VMC White.


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The balance of this session is the metallics on Zuba’s hammer.

The base  coats were Vallejo Model Air Metallic Black (depending on how old the packaging is, it might also be the obscure name my bottle has… as shown below. The part code for the colour, by whatever name, is 073.) for the iron bands, and P3 Molten Bronze for the fittings on the handle. I really love P3 paints – I would serious commit to them if they were in eyedropper bottles. That said, they use the same pots as Coat d’Arms and the original Citadel Colour paints form 20+ years ago. I still have some of those old Citadel Colour paints, and they are still as good as the day I bough them. I need to make time one of these days and find out which P3 colours dont have an equivalency in RMS, VMA, or VMC, and pick up them up. New colours and new paints is an adventure!!

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First highlight is VMA Gun and P3 Rhulic Gold.

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Next hilight is VMA Steel and GW Burnished GOld. Yes, that’s a GW Hex pot. Yes, it’s 20 years old. Yes, it’s still good… albeit almost empty. It’s gotten a bit dry over the years – I’ve had to add Flow Improver to it a few times, but the colour is still great. I need to find a nice bright gold from another vendor to replace it.

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The final hilight is VMA Aluminum. If you havent tried out the VMA metallics, I *highly* recommend them. VMA pigments are super fine, in order to pass through an airbrush easily. Their silvers – Steel, Chrome and Aluminum in particular – are amazing. Very, very smooth. No metallic flecks. Incredible flow. They are sex in bottled form. 17ml sex.

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The very final step, to make the bands look like iron instead of steel, was to give them a couple washes of RMS Black Ink and some flow improver. I went with RMS Black ink this time because it’s a very weak ink compared to the Adikolor I used last night. Which is exactly the effect I wanted: gently add some tone and definition, without being too strong.

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~ by Chris on February 16, 2013.

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