Skraeling Warrior: Step-by-Step, the Cbag System™

A few weeks ago, I brought a few of my Skraelings down to the games club – a couple complete models from the first batch, and a few in-progress models from the second batch so people could see the changes from each stage.

Watts requested a step-by-step of the process, and I’ve always felt that you have to give the people what they want, so here it is. 🙂

I didnt bother setting up the tripod or the lightbox for these – my desk always gets really messy while I am working on a project… and I had been working on my Skraelings for 6 weeks (with a couple interruptions to squeeze in a few Blood Bowl models), so it was a complete disaster area (I considered applying for some relief funding). In fact, the day after I finish a project is a delightful day: ‘Desk Clean Day’ – I clear off all the garbage, put all my paints and tools away, vacuum the table and the floor, wipe the table down first with IA alcohol then with disinfectant cleaner… then I set up the camera, tripod and lightbox and I take my photos.

I’m very much into rituals, as you can tell. 🙂

These images were just shot on Auto, with the flash, but I think they are decent enough to show the process.

I started with the airbrush: I primed with Vallejo German Red Brown Surface Primer, then sprayed Minitaire Ghost Purple at a negative 45° angle to add some rich tone to the shadows. I followed that with my zenithal hilighting with successive layers of Vallejo Model Air Rust (the non metallic version), Wood and Skin Tone.

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After that cured, I moved onto the traditional layering. This stage was the most time-consuming part of the process – I spent roughly 90 minutes per model layering up the hilights.

First off, the flesh – layered with Reaper Master Series Orange Brown, Palamino Gold and Golden Hilights.

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The caribou hide clothing is then layered with RMS Leather Brown, Tanned Leather, Buckskin Pale and Golden Blonde.

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Lastly, the hair, fur and stone were done together. They got a base coat of RMS Stormy Grey…

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Followed by RMS Stone Grey and Weathered Stone on the stone elements (shale on the base and axe head), with Cloudy Grey, then a Cloudy Grey/Snow Shadow mix for the hair and fur.

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The next stage is a fun part – the oil techniques! It’s fun because oil techniques are nice to do, and also because the fumes make me bring out my towel.

I am not doing a tutorial on oil washing/filtering, there are plenty of great ones on YouTube – I recommend viewing the ones from WGConsortium, Les Bursley, and SchnauzerFaceMinis.

I used Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna for the skin, Raw Sienna for the caribou hide clothing and Lamp Black for the hair and fur. The solvent I use is the Demco Odorless Taltine. (Dont worry, even without fumes, you will still get high.)

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And then… disaster struck.

As I mentioned at the beginning, my studio gets really really really dirty while I am in the middle of a project. Really. It becomes an unfriendly space for electronics: I got some dirt inside the chamber of my camera.


Considering my anger management issues, I’m shocked that I didnt toss my camera through the window when I saw the dirt in there… I tried to clean it out the best I could at the time with the tools I had available, which only made it dirtier. It was only after the fact that I discovered that compressed air and q-tips are exactly what you should *not* use to clean out the camera chamber.

*double sigh*

After my rage subsided, I decided that the show must go on, but the following final shots are, sadly, pretty bad. 😦

This is the last stage of painting: the glazes. I added varying amounts of Matte Medium or Glaze Medium and water to create my glazes – I generally use Matte Medium for glazing, unless I am painting something that has a large surface area, or is in the round, or I need it to settle into crevasses, in which case I use Glaze Medium.

The skin got a glaze of Vallejo Game Colour Skin Wash and Glaze Medium. The clothing got two glazes to create the tonal range I wanted: the first glaze is overall with FW Ink Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber mixed 1:1 with a generous amount of Matte Medium, then a second glaze only in the shadowed areas of Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber, mixed 1:2 (basically, I just add a second drop of Burnt Umber to the mix I already have).

The axe handle and straps on the leggings got a glaze of Vallejo Model Colour Woodgrain, while the hair and fur got a wash of a mix of FW Black Ink and Payne’s Grey. I mix my own acrylic washes, but I use Les Bursley’s recipe, which is the same recipe that Secret Weapon uses for their washes. I add a dot of Payne’s Grey to a premixed batch of black wash (I think it would be the same as Strong Body Black), this gives me a nice rich black. Lastly, the shale on the base gets separate washes of RMS Highland Moss and Military Green mixed with Glaze Medium painted into any crevasses that water would pool into. I paint these on as separate washes to create variation in the tones.

Please note: if you are new to the FW Inks for glazes and washes… pay careful attention to the opacity of the ink: if the colour has (o) after it’s name, like Raw Sienna (o), it means it’s opaque… and they arent kidding. It’s not completely opaque like acrylic paint, but it’s opaque enough that it will cover any subtle transitions of tone. I always add water and medium to my glazes, but you really need to add extra medium when dealing with opaque inks.

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After this, I did all my detail work: painted the jewelry, straps, feathers, eyes and warpaint. I also did a bit of lining using RMS Brown Liner to create some contrast between edges. I didnt bother taking a photo of this stage – the dirty camera wouldnt do it justice… check out pictures of my Chieftain, or of the first batch to see how the detailing looks at the end.

For anyone curious about the state of the camera, I picked up the Lenspen Sensorklear kit from Henry’s – and it worked like a charm: the Chieftain photos were taken the day I cleaned the chamber and the sensor. It was inevitable that dirt would have gotten in there at some point, so I’m not too pissed about it… anymore. 😉

~ by Chris on July 18, 2013.

2 Responses to “Skraeling Warrior: Step-by-Step, the Cbag System™”

  1. […] also put together, at Watts’ request, a step-by-step for my process to do these models. I was averaging around 3 hours a model, which for me, is pretty much Speed […]

  2. […] So there you go. Note, if you want to see how to really paint fine detailed figures then I recommend having a look at the blog of one of the other Toronto based guys. He has some great step by step posts, but I’m not at that level yet (and may never be). Check then out here as an example : […]

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